The Mohacs Historical Memorial Site at Sátorhely (literally ‘encampment’), about 6km southwest of Mohács and a kilometre off route 56, was opened in 1976 to mark the 450th anniversary of the Mohács battle. It’s a fitting memorial to the dead over a common grave that was only discovered in the early 1970s. Scores of carved wooden markers in the shape of bows, arrows, lances and crosses lean this way and that and represent the defeated Hungarians. Those topped with turbans, crescents and scimitars and standing bolt upright are the Turks. The subterranean entrance leads to a circular courtyard with 10 panels with (somewhat one-sided) explanations in English. ‘Here began the ruination of a once strong Hungary’ proclaims one.