At the northern end of Váci utca lies Vörösmarty tér, a large square of smart shops, galleries, cafes and an artist or two, who will draw your portrait or caricature. In the centre is a statue of Mihály Vörösmarty, the 19th-century poet after whom the square is named. Made of Italian marble, it is protected in winter by a bizarre plastic ‘iceberg’ that kids love sliding on. At the northern end is Gerbeaud , Budapest’s fanciest, most famous cafe.