You might think Seyðisfjörður is the end of the line, but further retreat is possible. The remote farm Skálanes, 19km east of Seyðisfjörður along the fjord edge, is an independent nature reserve and heritage field centre. The owner has restored the once-abandoned farmstead into a veritable Eden for amateur botanists, ecologists, archaeologists (remains from the Settlement Era have been found) and birdwatchers (more than 45 avian species).
Its isolation and experimental nature (it's plugged as a place of learning, not a regular guesthouse) will appeal to naturalists; a stay of a few days is recommended.
A variety of stay-over packages are available, incorporating guiding and meals (guests may use the kitchen). Straight-up B&B accommodation in cosily refurbished rooms goes for Ikr14,100/19,500 for a single/double; a simple two-course dinner is Ik3500.
Getting to Skálanes is an adventure in itself. You could walk all the way from Seyðisfjörður (there are footbridges across the three rivers); ride a mountain bike or paddle a kayak hired from Hlynur Oddsson. In a normal car, consider driving 13km along the rough unsealed road until you get to the river, then walking about 4km (the walk is highly recommended, but call to enquire about the state of the road before driving in a small 2WD). In a good-sized 4WD you can drive the whole way there (take care fording the rivers). A final option: have the centre pick you up from Seyðisfjörður/the river (Ikr8000/6000 return per vehicle).
