Seltjarnarnes, 5km west of Reykjavík centre, is a coastal area that feels a world away. With 106 visiting species recorded, the offshore island of Grótta is a haven for birdwatching and boasts a red-and-white lighthouse. It is accessible at low tide, but is closed May to July to protect nests. Get here along the pretty coastal path , popular with walkers, joggers and cyclists.
Waves rush in to the lava-strewn beach , the air has that salt-sea tang, fish-drying racks sit by the shore and Arctic terns scream overhead. There are also super views across the fjord to Esja (909m).