'One of the neatest and prettiest edifices I have seen', commented William Thackeray in 1842 after visiting Lismore's 17th-century cathedral. And that was before the addition of the Edward Burne-Jones stained-glass window , which features all the Pre-Raphaelite hallmarks: an effeminate knight and a pensive maiden against a sensuous background of deep-blue velvet and intertwined flowers. There are some noteworthy 16th-century tombs , including the elaborately engraved MacGrath family crypt dating from 1557, with the 12 apostles carved around the sides.