The one compelling reason to visit the town of Caserta, 30km north of Naples, is to gasp at the colossal, World Heritage–listed Reggia di Caserta. Italy's swansong to the baroque, the complex began life in 1752 after Charles VII ordered a palace to rival Versailles. Not one to disappoint, Neapolitan architect Luigi Vanvitelli delivered a palace bigger than its French rival. With its 1200 rooms, 1790 windows, 34 staircases and 250m-long facade, it was reputedly the largest building in 18th-century Europe.
Vanvitelli's immense staircase leads up to the royal apartments, lavishly decorated with frescoes, art, tapestries, period furniture and crystal.
The restored back rooms off the Sala di Astrea (Room of Astraea) house an extraordinary collection of historic wooden models of the Reggia, along with architectural drawings and early sketches of the building by Luigi Vanvitelli and his son, Carlo.The apartments are also home to the Mostra Terrea Motus, an underrated collection of international modern art commissioned after the region's devastating earthquake in 1980. Among the contributors are US heavyweights Cy Twombly and Robert Mapplethorpe, as well as local luminaries like Mimmo Paladino and Jannis Kounellis.
The complex has appeared in numerous films, including Mission: Impossible 3 , Star Wars Episode 1: The Phantom Menace and Star Wars Episode 2: Attack of the Clones , moonlighting as Queen Amidala's palace in the latter two.
To clear your head afterwards, explore the elegant landscaped park, which stretches for some 3km to a waterfall and a fountain of Diana. Within the park is the famous Giardino Inglese (English Garden), a romantic oasis of intricate pathways, exotic flora, pools and cascades. Bicycle hire (from €4) is available at the back of the palace building, as are pony-and-trap rides (€50 for 30 minutes, up to five people). Ignore the illegal souvenir hawkers roaming the grounds.
If you're feeling peckish, consider skipping the touristy palace cafeteria for local cafe Martucci, located 250m east of the complex. Great coffee aside, the counters here heave with freshly made panini (sandwiches), salads, vegetable dishes, pastries and substantial cooked-to-order meals.
Regular trains connect Naples to Caserta (€3.90, 35 to 50 minutes) Monday to Saturday. Reduced services make Sunday an inconvenient day to visit. Caserta train station is located directly opposite the palace grounds. If you're driving, follow signs for the Reggia.
