This priceless jewel of a chapel, designed by Roger II in 1130, is Palermo's top tourist attraction. On the mid-level of Palazzo dei Normanni's three-tiered loggia, it glitters with stunning gold mosaics, its aesthetic harmony further enhanced by the inlaid marble floors and wooden muqarnas ceiling, a masterpiece of Arabic-style honeycomb carving that reflects Norman Sicily's cultural complexity.
Note that queues are likely, and that you'll be refused entry if you're wearing shorts, a short skirt or a low-cut top.
The chapel's well-lit interior is simply extraordinary. Every inch is inlaid with precious stones, giving the space a lustrous quality. Swarming with figures in glittering, dreamy gold, the exquisite, highly sophisticated mosaics were mainly the work of Byzantine Greek artisans brought to Palermo by Roger II in 1140 especially for this project. They capture expressions, detail and movement with extraordinary grace and delicacy, and sometimes with enormous power – most notably in the depiction of Christ the Pantocrator and Angels on the dome. The bulk of the mosaics recount the tales of the Old Testament, though other scenes recall Palermo's pivotal role in the Crusades. Some of the mosaics are later and less-assured additions (eg the Virgin and Saints in the main apse under Christ the Pantocrator), but fortunately these don't detract too much from the overall achievement.
It's not only the mosaics you should be gazing at – don't miss the painted wooden ceiling featuring muqarnas, a decorative device resembling stalactites that is unique in a Christian church (and, many speculate, a sign of Roger II's secret identity as a Muslim). The walls are decorated with handsome marble inlay that displays a clear Islamic aesthetic, and the carved marble in the floor is breathtaking: marble was as precious as any gemstone in the 12th century, so the floor's value at the time of its construction is almost immeasurable by today's standards.
There's a lot to take in, so once inside don't let the attendants hurry you through. Note also that the chapel is sometimes used for weddings, in which case it closes at 4.45pm.
