Named after its resident asini bianchi (albino donkeys), the Isola dell'Asinara encompasses 51 sq km of macchia (Mediterranean scrub), rocky coastline and remote sandy beaches. The island, Sardinia's second largest, is now a national park, but for years it was off-limits as home to one of Italy's toughest maximum-security prisons.
The only way to reach it is with a licensed boat operator from Stintino or Porto Torres. Once there, you can explore independently, although access is restricted to certain areas.
The smallest of Sardinia's three national parks, the island is a haven for wildlife, providing a habitat for an estimated 50 to 70 donkeys alongside 80 other animal species, including mouflon (silky-haired wild sheep) and peregrine falcons.
Dotted around its stark landscape are series of abandoned buildings that were once part of the island's notorious carcere (prison). Built in 1885, along with a quarantine station for cholera victims, the jail was a kind of Italian Alcatraz and many of Italy's most dangerous criminals did time there, including Neapolitan gangster, Raffaele Cutolo, and the infamous mafia boss Totò Riina. The prison finally closed in 1997.
The prisoners have long since gone but much of the island remains out of bounds, including the beach at Cala Sant’Andrea (a breeding ground for turtles). You can, however, cover the island's highlights on a guided tour. Itineraries vary but most take in the prison at Fornelli , Cala d'Oliva , the panoramic highpoint of Punta della Scomunica , and the beach at Cala Sabina .
Note that many tours do not include lunch, so either take a picnic or book a meal at the bar-restaurant at Cala Reale .
If you're visiting on your own, consider hiring a bike in Stintino and taking that over as there's no public transport on the island.
