Northwest of Barumini, La Giara di Gesturi is a high basalt plateau famous for its wild horses and uncontaminated natural beauty. The 45-sq-km plain, much of which is carpeted by macchia (Mediterranean scrubland) and woods of oak and cork trees, offers excellent walking and wonderful wildlife watching.
The principal gateway to the Giara, which is a protected area and off-limits to cars, is Tuili , though you can also reach it from Setzu or Gesturi .
Approaching from Tuili, the road climbs in a series of steep switchbacks to a car park at the Giara's southernmost entrance. There's no fee to enter here but rangers ask that you check in at the small information point .
From the car park, a well-trodden trail leads to a small lake called Pauli Mauri . This is one of several seasonal pools (paulis) on the Giara where you just might spot one of the area's indigenous cavallini (literally mini-horses) as they come out to drink. The best time to try for a sighting is the early morning or late afternoon.
The plateau also has its own microclimate, which fosters an array of unusual flora, best seen in spring, when the ground is covered in heather and the 15 species of orchid are in bloom.
One weekday bus runs from Cagliari to Tuili (€6, 2 hours), although you'll need your own transport to get up to the Giara.
