This remarkable 7th-century BC necropolis is one of Italy's most important Etruscan sites. At first sight, it doesn't look like much – a green field littered with corrugated huts – but once you start ducking into the tombs and seeing the vivid frescoes, you'll realise what all the fuss is about.
Some 6000 tombs have been excavated in this area since digs started in 1489, of which 140 are painted and 16 are currently open to the public.
For the best frescoes search out the Tomba della Leonessa , the Tomba della Caccia e della Pesca , which boasts some wonderful hunting and fishing scenes, the Tomba dei Leopardi , and the Tomba della Fustigazione , which is named after a scratchy scene of an S&M threesome.
To get to the necropolis, which is about 1.5km from the centre, take the free shuttle bus B from near the tourist office. You can also take bus D (€1) or walk – head up Corso Vittorio Emanuele, turn right into Via Porta Tarquinia and follow straight into Via Ripagretta; the walk takes about 20 minutes.
