End 'Little Venice' explorations on a high at this gorgeous piazza, across the bridge at the northern end of Via Borra. Chiesa di Santa Catarina , with its ancient, thick stone walls, stands sentry on the western side of the square as it did for the Medicis four centuries ago. Follow its walls along canal-side Scala del Refugio to Teatrofficina Refugio , a crumbling stone building if ever there was one with faded green shutters, gargantuan wooden doors and a thoroughly fabulous monthly calendar of happening theatre, music and cultural events.
Or stroll down the causeway by the bridge to La Bodeguita , an equally hip address with a red-brick cellar and sun-drenched wooden-decking terrace afloat the canal. Lunch on pasta (€10), salads (€7) and generously topped bruschetta (€7) while members of the local rowing club ply the water with oars in front of you or, come dark, enjoy live music that gets practically the whole square jiving from 10pm.
