The four-floor, 12,000-sq-m steel, glass and marble behemoth, care of the Ticinese architect Mario Botta, is both imposing and human in scale, with mountain light gently filling a central atrium from a soaring cupola. It's home to some huge 20th-century works, including Warhol's Four Marilyns (1962), several Picassos and a clutch of contemporary art stars, including Bill Viola, Kara Walker, Arnuf Rainer and a whopping-great Anslem Keifer.
Italian work is, naturally, also well represented, with excellent pieces from Giacomo Balla, Giorgio Morandi, Giorgio de Chirico, Lucio Fontana and Piero Manzoni. Temporary exhibitions cast a broad net, from easygoing shows of Monet or Modigliani to cutting-edge contemporary surveys.