No trip to Livorno is complete without a stroll along (and photo shoot of) this dazzling terrace with stone balustrades that sweeps gracefully along the seafront in a dramatic chessboard flurry of black-and-white checks. When it was built in the 1920s it was called Terrazza Ciano after the leader of the Livorno fascist movement; it now bears the name of Livorno-born opera composer Pietro Mascagni (1863–1945).