The uninspiring streets of Porto Torres' modern centre provide the unlikely setting for Sardinia’s largest Romanesque church. Built between 1030 and 1080, the basilica is an impressive, and architecturally important structure, notable for its facing apses – it has no facade – and three lateral portals. Its solemn interior is divided by 28 marble columns, pilfered by the Pisan builders from the ancient Roman city, whilst underneath, the crypt is lined with religious statuary and various stone tombs.
The church, which stands on an ancient pagan burial ground, takes its name from one of the great Sardinian saints, the Roman soldier Gavino, who commanded the garrison at Torres in Diocletian’s reign. Ordered to put to death two Christian priests, Protus and Januarius, he was converted by them and he himself shared their martyrdom. All three were beheaded on 25 October 304. Evidence for these events is scanty, but the legend of the martiri turritani (martyrs of Torres) flourishes.
To get to the basilica follow Corso Vittorio Emanuele south from the port for about 1km, and you'll find it one block to the west.
