Park at the entrance to Marciana and head 40 minutes out of the village on foot along Via delle Fonti and its continuations, Via delle Coste and Via dei Monti, to this much-altered 11th-century church. Inside is a stone upon which a divine hand is said to have painted an image of the Virgin, believed to have miraculous powers.
It is an invigorating uphill hike along an old mule track bordered by scented parasol pines, chestnut trees, wild sage and thyme. The coastal panorama that unfolds as you get higher is remarkable. Once you reach the hilltop chapel (627m), drink like Napoleon did from the old stone fountain across from the church – look for the plaque commemorating his visit here on horseback in 1814. Next, continue five minutes along the footpath to play 'I Spy Corsica'.
