On the island's southern coast, Gelso is a picturesque little port with a family-run restaurant and a couple of black-sand beaches that rarely get very crowded. In summer there's a bus service to get there, but you'll be much better off hiring a car or scooter, as services are limited and it's a 15km walk back if you get stranded.
There's not much to Gelso itself, but before you get to the village, a steep dirt track (pedestrians only) branches off to Spiaggia dell'Asina (Donkey Beach), a crescent of black sand giving onto inviting waters. A second beach, Spiaggia Cannitello , is surrounded by lush, almost tropical greenery. Both beaches have a rudimentary bar/cafe, where you can hire sun lounges and umbrellas.
