If Chiaia is Naples' drawing room, then Piazza dei Martiri is its chaise longue. The square's centrepiece is Enrico Alvino's 19th-century monument to Neapolitan martyrs, with four lions representing the anti-Bourbon uprisings of 1799, 1820, 1848 and 1860. At No 30 is Palazzo Calabritto , designed by Luigi Vanvitelli, best known for creating Caserta's epic Palazzo Reale.
Great names of the fashion variety abound around the corner on exclusive Via Calabritto, among them legendary local tailor Finamore . On the piazza itself is book and music store Feltrinelli , where locals head to browse, cruise and guzzle espresso in the in-store basement cafe.