Two kilometres north of Tempio Pausania on the SS133 road to Palau is the Nuraghe Maiori, signposted off to the right and immersed in billowing cork woods. As the name suggests (maiori means ‘major’), it is a good deal bigger than many of the simple ruined towers that dot the countryside around here.
A trail leads through fragrant herb gardens to the tower, which has a chamber on each side, and a ramp to a third, open room at the back. Stairs to the left allow you to walk to the top. It’s pitch black inside the chambers, so bring a headlight – or ask to borrow a torch – to spot clusters of rare and tiny lesser horseshoe bats.