Once home to the area's fishing fleet, Mergellina's marina is now a crowd-pulling combo of anchored yachts and kitsch Neapolitan chalets, neon-lit seaside gelaterie and bars. Pick up an ice-cream brioche at Chalet Ciro Mergellina and soak up the postcard view of the castello (castle) and volcano.
From here, opt for a lazy passeggiata (stroll) eastward along the car-free lungomare (seafront), or, if you don't mind the incline, head southwest along Via Mergellina, which becomes Via Posillipo, for enchanting vistas of the bay, the city and flouncy, salubrious villas.