In the unassuming town of Casalzuigno, about 9km east of Laveno, generations of nobles have swanned about the magnificent gardens of Villa della Porta Bozzolo, completed in 1690. The grand, two-storey building, surrounded by various outbuildings, has a calm, self-assured feel. Inside, the ballroom and upstairs gallery are richly decorated with frescoes. The cool, dark library, with its 18th-century walnut book cabinets, is only open on Sundays. Outside, fine Italianate gardens create a pleasing world of natural harmony.