Built on the site of a 2nd-century pagan temple, this squat church has suffered at the hands of overzealous renovators (the last add-on being the Neo-Romanesque facade and bell tower early last century). Still, it exerts a calm force amid the swirling visual din of supersized billboards, office blocks and ever-flowing traffic of the piazza, and its lily-scented interior is a serene respite. The Venetian lion-topped column at the entrance dates back to 1656.
