For one of Rome’s most picture-perfect scenes, head to Via del Pellegrino 19, just off Campo de’ Fiori. Here you’ll come across a dark archway called the Arco degli Acetari. This in itself isn’t especially memorable but if you duck under it you’ll emerge onto a tiny medieval square enclosed by rusty orange houses and full of colourful cascading plants. Cats and bicycles litter the cobbles, while overhead washing hangs off pretty flower-lined balconies.