Just north of Langhirano, the majestic Castello di Torrechiara was closed due to earthquake damage at the time of research, but scheduled to reopen in 2010. One of many castles built or rebuilt by Pier Maria Rossi in the 15th century, it commands great views of the Apennines and has some exquisite frescoes in the Camera d’Oro (Golden Room). There’s also a smart restaurant-cum-B&B here, the Taverna del Castello , offering meals for around €30.