Sitting in a stagnant moat, 19km northwest of Parma in the town of Fontanellato, the formidable Rocca Sanvitale is one of the region’s best-preserved castles. Built over an older fort by the Sanvitale family in the 16th century, it contains some superb frescoes by Parmigianino, the best of which adorn the Sala di Diana e Atteone.