This château's extraordinary outline is the result of an almost-total 20th-century restoration after the original, built from the 11th to 14th centuries, had fallen into complete ruin. Walkways in the bowels of the edifice display different layers of occupation, from Roman onwards. Open to the air, the 'Byzantine Hall' is a marvellous space, while the Gothic polygonal chapel is built around a central well. Plusher halls display fine Flanders tapestries, while photo galleries show the reconstruction process and snaps of famous visitors.
There's not much info in English, so grab an audio guide (€2). The appealingly vaulted, barrel-strewn Keller bar opens occasionally for jazz concerts.