Walk or drive west from town along the promenade and you'll reach the tiny sand beaches at Qbajjar Bay, backed by buildings, and the more scenic Xwieni Bay, separated by a headland with a small fort. Beyond Xwieni, the road runs along a rocky shore that has been carved into a patchwork of salt pans, a wild and extraordinary landscape. There's usually a small stall selling salt from the pans, which are owned by three families and still worked in summer.