Podgorica's oldest neighbourhood retains traces of the 400 years in which it was the centre of a bustling Ottoman Turkish town. The blocky clock tower overlooking the square was useful for signaling Muslim prayer times. In the maze of streets behind it, two mosques remain. You wouldn't know to look at it, but the Doganjska Mosque has its origins in the 15th century. More impressive is the 18th-century Osmanagić Mosque , which Turkish money has helped to restore.
At the confluence of the two rivers is the ruin of the Ribnica Fortress , built by the Ottomans after their conquest in 1474. The best-preserved element is a little arched bridge crossing the Ribnica. The pebbly Morača riverbank now serves as Podgorica's main beach , complete with a summertime bar, deckchairs and sun umbrellas.