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Black Lake
Eighteen glacial lakes known as gorske oči (mountain eyes) dot the Durmitor range. The Black Lake, a pleasant 3km walk from Žabljak, is the largest and the most visited part of the national park. The rounded mass of Međed (The Bear; 2287m) rears up behind it, casting an inky shadow
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Ričardova Glava
Immediately south of the Old Town, this little beach has the ancient walls as an impressive backdrop. If you wander around the headland, past the much-photographed statue of a naked female dancer, you’ll find quieter double-bayed Mogren Beach . There’s a spot near here where the fe
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Citadela
At the Stari Grad’s seaward end, the old citadel offers striking views, a small museum and a library full of rare tomes and maps. Its thought to be built on the site of the Greek acropolis, but the present incarnation dates to the 19th century Austrian occupation. Its large terrace
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Liberty Monument
On the cliff above Mala Plaža, this imposing monument is a lovely piece of socialist art that’s now neglected and covered in graffiti. Its two V-shaped white segments resemble a pair of fighter planes that have crash-landed on their noses. Closer inspection reveals them as stylised
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Slovenska Plaža
After the marina the long sweep of Budva’s main beach commences, heralded by blaring local pop and endless rows of sun umbrellas and loungers (available for hire at about €3 for each). If you can’t get your head around this typically Mediterranean concept, there’s no charge for spr
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Katič & Sveta Nedjelja Islands
Directly in front of the town beach is what looks like one sheer rocky outcrop capped with a church and a stand of trees but is actually two islets – Katič and Sveta Nedjelja (Holy Sunday). Holy Sunday Church is said to have been built in gratitude by a Greek sailor who was shipwr
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St Georges Church
Sitting behind castle-like walls on the lower slopes of Gorica hill (Podgorica means under Gorica), this little Orthodox church is the citys oldest. Inside, the remains of centuries-old frescoes are more interesting than the relatively modern gilded iconostasis. More fascinating st
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Ulica Njegoševa
Herceg Novis Stari Grad is at its most impressive when approached from the pedestrian-only section of Ulica Njegoševa, which is paved in the same shiny marble as Dubrovnik and lined in elegant, mainly 19th-century buildings. The street terminates in cafe-ringed Trg Nikole Ðurkovića
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Španjola Fortress
Situated high above the town, this fortress was started and finished by the Turks but named after the Spanish (yep, in 1538 they had a brief stint here as well). If the graffiti and empty bottles are anything to go by, it’s now regularly invaded by local teenagers. There’s a signpo
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Museums & Galleries of Podgorica
Despite Cetinje nabbing most of the national endowment, the new capital is well served by this collection of art and artefacts. There’s an interesting section on Podgorica’s history which includes antiquities exhumed from Doclea, its Roman incarnation, the remains of which are in t
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Fortemare
The bastion at the town’s seaward edge was rebuilt by the Venetians during their 110-year stint as overlords (before the Austrians, French, Russians, Montenegrins, Austro-Hungarians, Serbs, Germans and Italians all had their turns). Its now used for film screenings on summer nights
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Žanjic & Mirišta
Sitting in a sheltered cove below the olive groves, Žanjics 300m-long white pebbly beach attracts up to 1000 people in the height of summer. Neighbouring Mirišta is considerably smaller.Both are accessible by car but are more commonly reached by boat from Herceg Novi. The daily Bok
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Town Walls
A walkway about a metre wide leads around the landward walls of the Stari Grad, offering views across the rooftops and down on some beautiful hidden gardens. Admission only seems to be charged in the height of summer; at other times its either free or locked. The entrance is near t
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St Marys Collegiate Church
Built in 1221 on the site of a 6th-century basilica, this Catholic church is distinguished by impressive 20th-century bronze doors covered in bas-reliefs, a particularly gruesome larger-than-life crucifix, and a glass coffin containing the body of Blessed Osanna of Cattaro (1493–15
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Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum shows off the town’s ancient and complicated history – dating back to at least 500 BC – over four floors of exhibits. There’s an impressive collection of Greek and Roman jewellery, ceramics and glassware (how it survived in a town so prone to earthquakes a
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Red Commune Memorial House
Petrovac became the first communist-run municipality in the Adriatic following an electoral victory in 1919. That auspicious event is celebrated in the Red Commune Memorial House on the waterfront, which contains a modern art gallery and revolutionary museum. The latter consists ma
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Onogošt Fortress
The original Nikšić was built within sturdy walls on a rocky hill to the west of the current town. This was the site of a 4th-century Roman military base that was taken over by the Goths and fortified. Part of it has been restored and is used as a summer stage, although when we vis
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St Nicholas’ Church
Bar first became the seat of a Catholic diocese in the 9th century and in 1089 it was elevated to an archdiocese, with the archbishop given the title ‘Primate of Serbia’. The elegant archbishop’s palace sits next to this baroque-style church in the west of town on the route to Star
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St Basil of Ostrogs Cathedral
Sitting grandly on top of a pine-covered hill, Nikšićs hefty Serbian Orthodox cathedral was built between 1895 and 1900. A central dome floods the interior with light and massive chandeliers hang from the ceiling. The exquisite iconostasis is painted in the realistic style popular
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Morača Canyon
Heading north from Podgorica it doesn’t take long before the scenery becomes breathtaking. The highway gets progressively more precarious as it follows the Morača River into a nearly perpendicular canyon, 300m to 400m deep. If you’re driving, pull over into one of the viewing areas
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