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St John’s Church
Budvas largest church served as its Catholic cathedral until 1828, and parts of it possibly date from as early as the 9th century. A side chapel houses the Madonna of Budva – a 12th-century icon venerated by Catholic and Orthodox Budvans alike. Opening hours are sporadic.
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Archangel Michael’s Church
Built between 1883 and 1905, this beautifully proportioned, domed Orthodox church sits flanked by palm trees at the centre of gleaming white Trg Herceg Stejpana (commonly called Belavista Sq). The archangel is pictured in a mosaic above the door under an elegant rose window.
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King Nikola Museum
Entry to this 1871 palace, home to the last sovereign of Montenegro, is by guided tour (you may need to wait for a group to form). Although looted during WWII, enough plush furnishings, stern portraits and taxidermied animals remain to capture the spirit of the court.
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St Nicholas’ Cathedral
Set amongst a picturesque grove of gnarled olive trees below the Upper Gate is this Orthodox cathedral. It’s a relative newbie, having been built in 1890 shortly after the Ottomans were booted out, although it’s believed to stand on the site of a 15th-century monastery.
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Town Park
North of the centre the Town Park is a leafy, peaceful retreat, originally laid out in 1892. At one edge is the headquarters of Tivat’s Arsenal football club. We suspect that the club’s North London namesake has nothing to fear if its home ground is anything to go by.
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King Nikola’s Palace
Presenting an elegant facade to the water, King Nikola’s Palace was built in 1885 and now houses a collection of antiquities, folk costumes and royal furniture. Its shady gardens contain plants cultivated from seeds and cuttings collected from around the world by Montenegro’s sailo
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Cathedral of Christ’s Resurrection
The large dome, white stone towers and gold crosses of this immense Serbian Orthodox cathedral are a striking addition to Podgorica’s skyline. Work commenced in 1993 and its still a long way from completion, but you can usually enter and check out the glistening gold frescoes insid
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River Gate
Tucked in the quiet northern corner of town beside the parklike Trg od Drva (Wood Sq), this gate opens on to a moat formed by the clear mountain water of the bubbling Škurda River. It was built in 1540 to commemorate the attack on the city the previous year by the Ottoman navy.
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Gurdić Gate
Fewer tourists make it to the south end of town, where the houses narrow into a slim corridor leading to this bastion and gate (parts of which date from the 13th century) and the drawbridge over the Gurdić spring. Without the crowds you can easily imagine yourself transported thro
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Kanli
The big fort visible from the main road is the Kanli-Kula, a notorious prison during Turkish rule (roughly 1482–1687). You can walk around its sturdy walls and enjoy views over the town. In the dungeon below the lower set of flagpoles, former inmates have carved crosses and ships i
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Town Beach
Youre better off heading to the Luštica Peninsula for a proper swim, but Tivat does offer a couple of options if youre desperate for dip. Town Beach is a long concrete platform with a 20m pebbly section right by the main promenade. Theres another pebbly beach, Belani , just past th
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Dobreč
Blue-flagged Dobreč is reported to have some of the cleanest waters in Montenegro and is only accessible by sea – usually by taxi boat from Herceg Novi. Kayak Montenegro tours head here after visiting Rose. Make a day of it, as theres a good restaurant and a little water park for
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Kastio
This small Venetian fortress by the harbour offers gorgeous views of the beach and the dramatic diagonal stratification of the limestone cliffs melting into the turquoise water below. An interesting socialist realist bas-relief remembering the ‘socialist revolution’ is partly obscu
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Commemorative Plaque
On the corner adjacent to the statue, there’s an interesting commemorative plaque: ‘In gratitude to the people of Ulcinj for the humanity, solidarity and hospitality they have shown in sheltering and taking care of the persecuted from Kosova during the period March ‘98 to June ‘99
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Žuta Plaža
Dobrota is effectively Kotor’s beach suburb. Private swimming platforms take up much of the waterline, but this pebbly stretch closest to Kotor is open to everybody. Its a beautiful spot for a swim, with the sheer mountain walls looming above, but it should be noted that there hav
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Church of St Peter the Apostle
Predating the Ottoman invasion, this 1196 church lost its towers when it was converted into a mosque. Once again a church its currently in the process of sprouting new towers, which look somewhat grafted on. Inside, the scant remains of frescoes contrast with the bright red of the
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Hussein Pasha Mosque
Built in 1569 and boasting the highest minaret in the Balkans (42m), this is the most beautiful mosque in Montenegro. Its interiors are unusual as they’re painted with elaborate frescoes featuring geometric patterns and floral motifs. If its locked (as it often is), youll get a ta
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Omerbašića Mosque
Just outside Stari Bars main gate, this simple construction (dating from 1662) has a square stone base and an elegant minaret enclosed by a stone wall. The domed structure near the entrance is the tomb of Dervish Hasan. Many of the Roma people who make a significant proportion of
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Ploče Beach
If the sands are getting too crowded in Budva itself, head out to this little pebbly beach at the end of a scrub-covered peninsula, 10km west of town (take the road to Kotor, turn off towards Jaz Beach and keep going). The water is crystal-clear but if you prefer fresh water there
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Freedom Square
The heart of Nikšić is this large open area at the centre of Ulica Njegoševa, the main street. On summer nights what seems like the entire population – from toddlers to the elderly – parade up and down the square. On one side is a hefty bronze equestrian statue of King Nikola, whi
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