The long beach at Scheveningen, pronounced – if possible – as s'CHay-fuh-ninger, attracts nine million visitors per year. It's horribly developed: architects who lost hospital commissions have designed all manner of modern nightmares overlooking the strand. Scads of cafes elbow each other for space on tiers of promenades by the beach; the hype tapers off to the south as you pass the harbour.