Bergen's oldest quarter runs along the eastern shore of Vågen Harbour (the name simply translates to 'wharf') in long, parallel and often leaning rows of gabled buildings with stacked-stone or wooden foundations and reconstructed rough-plank construction. It's enchanting, no doubt about it, but can be exhausting if you hit a cruise ship and bus tour crush.
The current 58 buildings (25% of the original, although some claim there are now 61) cover 13,000 sq metres and date from after the 1702 fire, although the building pattern is from the 12th century. The archaeological excavations suggest that the quay was once 140m further inland than its present location.
In the early 14th century, there were about 30 wooden buildings, each usually shared by several stuer (trading firms). They rose two or three stories above the wharf and combined business premises with living quarters and warehouses . Each building had a crane for loading and unloading ships, as well as a schøtstue (large assembly room) where employees met and ate.
The wooden alleyways of Bryggen have become a haven for artists and craftspeople, and there are bijou shops and boutiques at every turn. The atmosphere of an intimate waterfront community remains intact, and losing yourself in Bryggen is one of Bergen's pleasures.
