King Håkon Håkonsson's huge stone church, about 5km south of Haugesund, was dedicated to St Olav in 1250 and has helped guide sailors through the strait of Karmsund for more than 750 years. The adjacent 7.2m spire, known as the Virgin Mary's Needle , leans perilously towards the church wall, and legend suggests that when it actually touches the wall the Day of Judgment is at hand – it was close but still free-standing when we were there.