The fascinating Dom Dinis’ walled hilltop castle was where the Bragança family lived before the palace was built. It has been transformed into the Museu de Arqueologia and Museu de Caça . A visit to these museums is a must – if only for an excuse to wander through the castle itself (think ‘secret’ tunnels, giant fire places and wonderful vaulted ceilings). The extraordinary (and under-promoted) archaeological collection is housed in the castle’s many rooms and spans various eras from the Palaeolithic to the Roman. It even has ancient Egyptian treasures. Portuguese speakers should chat about the collection with the knowledgeable and modest museum minder, Sr Loper. The less interesting hunting museum is stuffed with guns and the dukes’ animal trophies.
