At the southern end of Praça da República is the late-18th-century Igreja dos Terceiros , all heavy, gilded baroque but for the luminous azulejos portraying the life of St Francis.
Fine modern azulejos at the northern end of the Rossio depict scenes from regional life, and beyond these is the azulejo -adorned Museu Almeida Moreira , genteel home to the first director of the Museu Grão Vasco, with fine furnishings and art.
From here the grandest route into the old town is through the Porta do Soar de Cima , a gate set into a section of Afonso V’s town walls.