Mt Elbrus, enigmatically unusual with two peaks – the western at 5642m and eastern at 5621m – bulges nearly 1000m above anything else in the vicinity. This volcanic cone has upper slopes reputedly coated in ice up to 200m thick; numerous glaciers grind down its flanks and several rivers start here. The name ‘Elbrus’, meaning ‘Two Heads’ comes from Persian. In Balkar it’s ‘Mingi-Tau’ (meaning ‘thousands’, ie very big mountain).
The first (unconfirmed) climb of Mt Elbrus was in 1829 by a Russian expedition with Killar, a lone Circassian hunter hired as a guide, apparently reaching the peak on his own. The lower eastern peak was officially climbed on 31 July 1868 and the western peak on 28 July 1874, both by British expeditions. For propaganda purposes in Soviet times, there were mass ascents involving hundreds of climbers. A telephone cable was even taken to the top so Comrade Stalin could share the news.
The Climb
The climb on Elbrus is not technically difficult, but it’s harder than, say, Mt Kilimanjaro, with which it is often compared. Climbing experience on ice is advisable, and a good degree of fitness is paramount.
The climb itself takes just one long day, but most climbers require at least seven days of training and altitude acclimatisation before attempting the summit. Climbers typically spend a few days in Terskol or Azau before taking the lifts up to spend a few nights in and hike around the Barrels , a series of cylindrical lodges at 3800m. Slightly further up from the Barrels is the LeapRus 3912 hotel, a new accommodation option that sleeps up to 40 people.
The actual climb starts around 4am from one of two points: the Diesel Hut (also called Priyut 11) at 4130m, from where it’s a 10- to 12-hour hike to the summit; or the Pastukhov Rocks at 4700m, from where it’s a seven- to eight-hour hike. Both are accessible by snowcat from the Barrels. Most people start from Pastukhov Rocks.
One mistake you don’t want to make is to take this mountain lightly. As on any 5500m-plus peak, clear weather can quickly turn into thick fog. On average, about 10 people perish on Mt Elbrus each year. Do the sensible thing and take a guide.
Ascents above 3700m require a permit. These are free, for the time being, but must be applied for in advance from the Elbrus Area National Park Office - email the office. Tour operators or local guides can also arrange these for you.
See the Elbrus Club website (Russian only) for some useful information on the climb.
Skiing
The piste skiing on Elbrus is generally easier than on nearby Cheget, with terrain to suit all levels. The skiing beneath the lower cable-car station is good for beginners. The upper cable-car (Mir) station services a few steep and challenging runs for experts.
All-year skiing is possible from the uppermost chairlift, which terminates at 3800m. From here snowcats bring advanced skiers a couple of hundred metres further up to the Diesel Hut, from where there are opportunities for off-piste skiing. These run regularly in the peak ski season (per person R1000), but must be arranged in advance at other times. Call Akhmad to book snowcats. He also has 10-person snowcats for hire from R10,000.
An all-day ski pass costs R1300 and allows you to ride the cable cars and chairlift but not the gondola, which is run by a separate company. Multiday passes give you access to Elbrus and Cheget (but not both on the same day). Gear can be hired at any hotel or at numerous ski shops in Azau or Cheget Polyana.
Cable Cars & Chairlift
A gondola (R450, 9am to 3.30pm) runs parallel to the cable car (all-day pass, including chairlift, no skiing R800, 9am to 3.30pm). The gondola terminates at the cable-car mid-station (2870m). For now only the old cable car goes from the mid-station to the upper Mir station; both stations have small cafes.
A chairlift continues to 3800m. Both cable cars and the chairlift run year-round except at times of maintenance during late autumn and spring.
Tour buses start arriving at 10am from June to August, and the queues at the cable-car base station and mid-station can be brutal – waits of up to two hours are common at weekends. If it looks bad, consider just taking the gondola up to the mid-station, which affords exceptional views of Elbrus’ twin peaks and, to the southwest, Mt Cheget and Mt Azaubashi.
