Tourists and pilgrims all flock to Bogolyubovo, just 12km northeast of Vladimir – the reason being a small 12th-century church standing amid a flower-covered floodplain.
The Church of the Intercession on the Nerl is the golden standard of Russian architecture. Apart from ideal proportions, its beauty lies in a brilliantly chosen waterside location (floods aside) and the sparing use of delicate carving.
Legend has it that Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky had the church built in memory of his favourite son, Izyaslav, who was killed in battle against the Bulgars. As with the Cathedral of St Dmitry in Vladimir, King David sits at the top of three facades, the birds and beasts entranced by his music. The interior has more carvings, including 20 pairs of lions. If the church is closed (from October to April the opening hours are more sporadic), try asking at the house behind.
To reach this famous church, get bus 152 from the Golden Gate or Sobornaya pl in Vladimir and get off by the hard-to-miss Bogolyubsky Monastery , which contains remnants of Prince Andrei’s palace. Walk down Vokzalnaya ul, immediately east of the monastery. At the end of the street, cross the railroad tracks and follow the cobblestone path across the field. You can catch a ride in the horse-drawn carriage for R250 per person, two people minimum.
