This fantastic, five-domed cathedral, ascribed to Domenico Trezzini, is the namesake of this neighbourhood. Incorporating both baroque and neoclassical elements, the cathedral was built in the 1760s, with Giacomo Quarenghi’s neoclassical bell tower added later in the century. Over the centuries the congregation has included Dostoevsky, who lived around the corner. The cathedral was closed in 1932 and the Soviets turned it into an underwear factory; but in 1990 it was reconsecrated and has resumed its originally intended function.
These days it is one of the busiest cathedrals in town, as evidenced by the hordes of babushkas and beggars outside. Nonetheless, it’s worth weaving your way through the outstretched hands to admire the cathedral’s interiors (upstairs). The baroque iconostasis was originally installed in the private chapel of the Anichkov Palace, but was transferred here in 1808. For an impressive perspective on the onion domes, have a drink in the 7th-floor Raskolnikov bar of the Hotel Dostoevsky across the road.
