Russia’s vast, northernmost botanical gardens and its special hothouses nurturing tropical plants can be accessed by tour only (book in advance) at 9.30am, 11am, 1.30pm and 3pm (2pm on Saturdays), while the 2km summer-only eco-trail climbs to the alpine tundra. Take buses 1, 12, 16 or 105 (R19) towards Kukisvumchorr (‘25km’), north of Lake Bolshoi Vudyavr, alight by the turnoff on the left before reaching ‘25km’ and walk for 1.5km.