During the early days of WWII the Partisans, under Marshal Tito's command, headquartered in Kočevski Rog's dense forests. Amid the region's limestone caves they operated hospitals, schools and even printing presses. The nerve centre was the so-called Base 20, about 9km southwest of Dolenjske Toplice at 662m, reconstructed and turned into a national monument after the war. The site is always open; exhibitions in two huts are accessible with a guide.
Once a favourite ‘pilgrimage’ spot for Slovenes and Yugoslavs, it's now a shadow of its former self, its 26 wooden buildings slowly being consumed by the forest. A plaque erected near the site in 1995 diplomatically pays homage to everyone involved in the ‘national liberation war’, presumably including the thousands of Domobranci (Home Guards) executed here by the Partisans in 1945.
There's no bus service, but Base 20 can be reached by sealed road or on foot or bike from Podturn (it's 2km from Dolenjske Toplice to Podturn, and a further 7km uphill to Base 20). Guiding must be arranged in advance.
