They don't call it Calvari (Calvary) for nothing. Some pilgrims do it on their knees, but plain walking up the 365 cypress-lined steps from the town centre to the 18th-century hilltop chapel, the Oratori del Calvari , is penance enough. This may not be a stairway to heaven, but there are soul-stirring views to savour back over the town's mosaic of terracotta rooftops and church spires to the Tramuntana beyond.
