Rising from Castilla's northern plains, this is a typically remote Castilian church rich in history. It was built in the 9th century by refugee monks from Córdoba on the remains of a Visigoth church and various orders of monks and nuns lived here from the 9th to 19th century. It's best known for its beautifully simple horseshoe arches of the kind rarely seen this far north in Spain.
The graceful exterior porch with its portico is balanced by the impressive marble columns within; all of the interior columns (and three of those outside) are of Roman origin. Inside, two stone slabs and an arch are all that remains of the original Visigoth church, while other features are clearly Mozarabic (post Islamic).
To get here, take the N601 southeast of León. After about 14km, take the small LE213 to the east; the church is 16km after the turn-off.