From Es Puig , the hill at the heart of Deià, you peer across the rooftops of the higgledy-piggledy village and take in the full sweep of the valley to the glinting Mediterranean beyond. At the top is the modest parish church, the Església de Sant Joan Baptista (whose Museu Parroquial, with a collection of local religious paraphernalia, rarely opens). Opposite is the town cemetery . Here lies ‘Robert Graves, Poeta, 24-4-1895 – 7-12-1985 E.P.D’ (en paz descanse , meaning ‘may he rest in peace’). His second wife, Beryl Pritchard (Beryl Graves), who died in 2003, is buried at the other end of the graveyard.