On the drive up from the coast, in the foothills 6km north of Vera, you pass by Cuevas del Almanzora, a busy but generally unremarkable agricultural town. The handsome Castillo Marqúes de Los Vélez lords over the town from a hilltop, housing a basic archaeology museum as well as the Museo Antonio Manuel Campoy. The latter exhibits a large and fascinating selection of paintings and sculpture, including works by Picasso and Miró, from the outstanding private collection of Campoy, a native of Cuevas who was one of Spain’s greatest 20th-century art critics.
