The twisting, climbing CV147 leads after about 6km to this inland range – cooler than the coast, on occasion misty – with a Carmelite monastery and first-class restaurant at its heart. Nowadays it's a nature reserve and far from being a desert (for the monks it meant a place for mystic withdrawal), it’s a green, outdoor activities area. From Monte Bartolo (728m), its highest point, there are staggering views. The tourist office hands out an excellent booklet listing a range of different walks in the hills.
