About 10km south of Oñati, the Santuario de Arantzazu is a busy Christian pilgrimage site that's a fabulous conflation of piety and avant-garde art. The sanctuary was built in the 1960s on the site where, in 1468, a shepherd found a statue of the Virgin under a hawthorn bush. The sanctuary's design is based on this. The overwhelming impression of the building is of spiky towers and halls guarded by fourteen chiselled apostles and, in the crypt, a devil-red Christ.
