On the slopes of Monte Naranco, 3km northwest of central Oviedo, the Iglesia de San Miguel de Lillo was built by Ramiro I (842–50), Alfonso II’s successor, and marks an advance in Asturian art. Only about one-third of San Miguel remains – the rest collapsed centuries ago – but what’s left has a singularly pleasing form. To get here take bus 10, hourly from about 9.10am to 9.10pm, northwest on Calle de Uría near the train station.