This open-air zoo, 17km south of Santander, is a curious but successful experiment, a free-range home on the site of former open-cut mines for everything from rhinos to wallabies and gorillas to dromedaries. You need a car and about three hours to tour its 14km of roadways. From Santander, take the N623 towards Burgos and exit onto the CA144 towards Guarnizo; you'll soon see signs to the park, which is another 5km away.