On a hot summer’s afternoon, leafy Parque de Abelardo Sánchez offers some respite. It is home to the Museo Provincial (admission €1.20; 10am-2pm & 4.30-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun), with well-documented archaeological exhibits, including a famous collection of articulated dolls, made of amber and ivory, discovered in the Roman necropolis of Ontur.