The centrepiece of this cluster of museums is the excellent Västerbottens Museum , which traces the history of the province from prehistoric times to Umeå today, with well-presented exhibitions including photographs of the Sami and an absolutely enormous skis-through-the ages collection which includes the world’s oldest ski (5200 years old). Next door is Bildmuséet , the riveting modern-art museum, which features temporary exhibitions of thought-provoking works. These are surrounded by the large Friluftsmuséet , an open-air historic village where staff wear period clothes and demonstrate traditional homestead life. Paths, teeming with strolling families, meander past the Fiske och Sjöfartsmuseum , with its nautically themed displays, and the bakery, where you can watch demonstrations on how to make tunnbröd , the thin unleavened bread typical of northern Sweden. Horse-drawn carriage rides are available – a big hit with the little ones! It takes around 20 minutes to walk to Gammlia, or else you can take buses 2 or 7.