The star of the Gammlia museum complex, the engrossing Västerbottens Museum traces the history of the province from prehistoric times to Umeå today. Exhibitions include an enormous skis-through-the ages collection starring the world’s oldest ski (5400 years old), and an exploration of Sami rock art and shaman symbols. Of the temporary exhibitions, a photographic portrayal of a single family through several decades, shot by Latvian photographer Inta Ruka, was particularly moving. Take bus 2 or 7.